Octocrylene: UV Filter and Photostabilizer in Sunscreens

Technical Introduction

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that primarily absorbs UVB radiation (280–320 nm) and part of the short UVA range (up to 360 nm). Its dual role makes it highly valuable:

1. UV Filter → Protects skin against sunburn and photoaging.

2. Photostabilizer → Prevents the degradation of other UV filters, especially Avobenzone, thereby extending sunscreen effectiveness.

• Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate

• INCI Name: Octocrylene

• Molecular Formula: C₂₄H₂₇NO₂

• Molecular Weight: 361.48 g/mol

• Appearance: Clear, oily, colorless to pale yellow liquid

• UV Absorption Maxima: ~303 nm (UVB) and extends into short UVA

Applications

1. Cosmetics & Sun Care

• Sunscreens (lotions, sprays, sticks, gels) → Provides UVB protection and enhances photostability.

• Daily moisturizers & makeup with SPF → Boosts overall sun protection factor.

• Lip and hair products → Shields against UV-induced damage and color fading.

2. Formulation Benefits

• Stabilizes Avobenzone (a UVA filter prone to degradation).

• Acts as a solvent/emollient, improving sunscreen texture and spreadability.

• Prevents photo-induced discoloration in skincare and cosmetic formulations.

✅ Advantages

• UVB + short UVA coverage.

• Excellent photostabilizer for Avobenzone and other filters.

• Water-resistant properties enhance sunscreen longevity.

• Good solubility for crystalline UV filters (like Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane).

• Improves formulation aesthetics by acting as an emollient.

⚙️ Technical Specifications (Cosmetic Grade)

⚠️ Safety & Regulatory Notes

• Regulatory limits:

  • EU & USA (FDA): Approved up to 10% in cosmetic formulations.

  • Japan & APAC: Allowed within similar limits.

• Safety concerns:

  • Some reports of allergic reactions in very sensitive skin.

  • Under scientific review for possible endocrine activity at high exposure.

  • Like other organic sunscreens, being assessed for marine environmental impact, but not as restricted as Oxybenzone or Octinoxate.

❓ FAQ

Q1: Is Octocrylene safe for daily use?
Yes, it is widely approved and considered safe at regulated concentrations.

Q2: Does Octocrylene protect against UVA?
It covers short UVA (up to ~360 nm), but full UVA protection requires combining it with Avobenzone, Tinosorb S, or Zinc Oxide.

Q3: Why is Octocrylene often combined with Avobenzone?
Because Octocrylene stabilizes Avobenzone, preventing it from breaking down under sunlight.

Q4: Is it water-resistant?
Yes, Octocrylene is inherently water-resistant, which boosts SPF retention after swimming or sweating.

Q5: Does Octocrylene cause irritation?
Rarely. It is generally well tolerated, though a small number of people may develop contact dermatitis.